I am continuing to enjoy working with the ten teenagers teaching them about photography. It is a bit difficult because only a few of them speak very limited english. Thus I am working with a translator named Ashkay (pronounced 'ack-shy'). It is really frustrating not being able to speak with the kids, to find out about their lives, and get to know them. The only insights into their world is of course through visual means, such as seeing their houses, and looking at their photography.

I have been particularly impressed by one of the boy's photography. The boy's name is 'Sonu'. Sonu is probably around fifteen years old. He parts his hair to the side and seems to take care to comb it (unlike some of the other kids). Whenever I meet him he has this immense smile that stretches ear to ear. The fact that he ALWAYS has a smile on his face is amazing given the fact that he is very sick. He actually would die if he wasn't sponsored by a dutch charity which pays for his meds. Sonu has hepatitis B. I am not exactly sure what this entails (i know his is not contagious) but while the other kids are running around hitting each other with pieces of cardboard he sits and watches, just grinning ear to ear. Often Sonu is to tired and cannot go on the photography trips because he doesn't feel well. Instead he just sits to the side leans back, puts his foot on his knee, folds his hands, and observes the others with this great look of satisfaction on his face. Often I feel like I should stick a pipe in his mouth because the way he moves and dresses resembles an old man. The yellow color in the whites of his eyes and pallor (which i'm guessing is from liver failure?) gives his skin a tired worn look. This is not helped by the fact that the only shirt he wears (owns?) is a faded yellow with brown stripes button down dress shirt which helps bring out his jaundiced complexion. However the shirt is always crisp and clean because he does not run around in the dirt and dung, does not fall and tear his sleeve, and does not spill orange drink on himself by quickly jumping up in order to join a street cricket game. I'm guessing his stance and stagger resembles an old man because he most likely has spent his time with....old men. While his father works, brothers go to school, mother cleans, Sonu would most likely be spending his time with his grandparents. As a result his slow deliberate movements and confident wise saunter give him an air of maturity that the other kids don't possess.

What really fascinates me are his photos. They are by far the best (in my opinion), especially his landscapes. He really seems to capture the colours and the smells of everyday life. He understands how to place the horizon in interesting places and include foreground objects in ways which create depth and feeling. He never misses a moment to catch an old women with her head thrown back in laughter, or the moment the paddle hits the cricket ball amongst a sea of cows. I imagine that his photography skill has grown from years of observing. Observing the other kids playing, observing the all the beautiful things in life, and never knowing when he no longer will be able see them again. His whole life is watching the scenery from the background.

Another interesting point is his involvement with fairmail. The fairmail teenagers will all participate in workshops and photography classes five days a week until they are no longer teenagers. Each photo selected for a post card earns them 5,000 rupees plus commission. The money can ONLY be spent on things that will enhance their future (university, home improvements, etc). These kids were chosen from a pool of about 50 or so teenagers based on many factors (parents, time, enthusiasm, etc). New teenagers will only be added when two or more spots are open. The program is supposed to help the teenagers gain confidence and skills which will help them get a job, go to university or even be social revolutionaries (ok maybe that's my little idyllic dream but hey i can dream right?).

For instance the girls in the group have a very hard time speaking out. They complain that their parents ask 'what are they doing, anyone can take pictures, and that photography is a waste of time'. They say that people in the street tell them to go back home when they take pictures. We continually have to tell them that they are 'ok' they can be wrong, make mistakes, and really teach them to stand up for themselves in a culture that from my perspective bully's women. As a result we hope by teaching them confidence they can be leaders and help little by little change people's attitudes. Another boy Dijret wants to be in the police force to stop the corruption. He like the other kids are all untouchables. In fact none of them will give their last names because they are ashamed. This caste of people are often greatly taken advantage of--for instance made to pay all kinds of unannounced taxes (basically at the whim of the police and are subject to beatings for minor or even no offense). Thus like Dijret, many of the kids want to go to university and be politicians or police officers in order to change things for the future.

However in Sonu's case...what future does he have? How will his money help his education when who knows how long he will have to live. He is taking the spot from another kid who is equally as disadvantaged and would be helped more by the money and skills. Is this enough to disqualify him from the program? Obviously I think there is absolutely no reason he shouldn't be included. In fact his photography is creating a memory. This is what it's like to see through the eyes of someone who wants to savour every vision. This is what its like to not take every picture perfect moment for granted. Without words I have learned a lot from sonu and his beaming grin. He has taught me even more than the 1,000's of words every picture is worth.

Sure this story is a bit depressing, but everything in life isn't joyless. We all have to suffer and there is no reason that suffering should always have a negative connotation. As Sonu has shown me suffering helps people see the beauty in the world.


However India is not only suffering and I would hate to perpetuate the stereotype of sick kids, slums, and an unhappy poor population. There is plenty of happiness in India from the lowest to the highest caste. Indians do know how to enjoy their good times. For instance weddings here last FIVE days (like i mentioned before...its wedding season so it's nearly impossible to walk down the street with out being held up by a parade of colorful silk and the loud melody of a marching band. As i type now I can feel the vibration of the drums pulsating through the 45 C/112 F degree air as my ears are filled with the loud marching tunes). Tomorrow I'm going to one of the kid's (Kaushel) brother's wedding. It is the day with the 'banana leaves'. I am not sure what this means however Kaushel "you come Thursday" "best day for see indian wedding" "day with banana leaves". So i guess tomorrow i will learn what the 'day with banana leaves' is.